Glossary entry (derived from question below)
français term or phrase:
goare, rowl, fardingale
anglais translation:
gore, roll, farthingale
Added to glossary by
Lindsay Edwards
Feb 13, 2004 15:52
20 yrs ago
français term
goare, rowl, fardingale
français vers anglais
Autre
Textiles / vêtements / mode
clothing
Englishwomen's dresses and their construcion: patterns of fashin 1660-1860
Proposed translations
(anglais)
4 +2 | farthingale | Lindsay Edwards |
3 | farthingale/crinoline | Bourth (X) |
Proposed translations
+2
30 minutes
Selected
farthingale
a fardingale is a farthingale - don't know about the others.A farthingale was a hoop skirt or framework for expanding a woman's skirt, worn in the 16th and 17th centuries.
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Note added at 2004-02-13 16:26:53 (GMT)
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goare could be gore = a triangular piece of material inserted in a garment, to give it greater width or a desired shape.
2. one of the panels, usually tapering or shaped, making up a garment, as a skirt. Webster\'s
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Note added at 2004-02-13 16:31:17 (GMT)
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I think rowl must be roll, see http://costume.dm.net/farthingale/
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Note added at 2004-02-13 16:35:32 (GMT)
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See on same site
http://costume.dm.net/farthingale/history.html#quote
\"To cut this farthingale in silk, fold the fabric in half lengthwise. From the left, the front (Piece A) and then the back (piece b) are cut from the double layer. The rest of the silk should be spread out and doubled full width to intercut the gores. Note that the front gores (A ) are joined straight to straight grain, and the back gores (B) are joined bias to straight grain, so that there will be no bias together on the side seams and they will not drop. The front of this farthingale has more at the bem than the back. The silk left over may be used for a hem. The farthingale is 1 1/2 baras long (49.5 inches) and the width round the hem slightly more than 13 handspans, which in my opinion is full enough for this farthingale, but if more fullness is required, it can be added to this pattern.\"
The pattern to the left used 6 Castilian Baras (5 1/2 yards) of silk fabric which was 22 inches wide. The large, squarish shape of the front (piece A) has the two gores marked A sewn to either side of it to create a flaring triangular front half. The two triangular gores are sewn to the front with their selvegde edges. The two triangular pieces marked B are sewn to the large B back piece by their bias-cut edges. Then the back half is sewn to the front, the straight selvedge edge of the B gore being sewn to the bias-cut edge on the A gore. As Alcega notes above, this results in no bias seams being sewn to eachother and eliminates the sagging which two bias seams sewn together would inevitably experience.
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Note added at 2004-02-13 16:40:18 (GMT)
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\"Boning materials used in Elizabeth\'s time include rounds of wood and cane, ropes and rags stuffed into channels, and perhaps even whalebone.\" http://costume.dm.net/farthingale/history.html#quote
Perhaps \'rolls\' of rag or \'rolled\' rags were stuffed into the channels mentioned above to create stffness.
Hope this is helpful.
--------------------------------------------------
Note added at 2004-02-13 16:26:53 (GMT)
--------------------------------------------------
goare could be gore = a triangular piece of material inserted in a garment, to give it greater width or a desired shape.
2. one of the panels, usually tapering or shaped, making up a garment, as a skirt. Webster\'s
--------------------------------------------------
Note added at 2004-02-13 16:31:17 (GMT)
--------------------------------------------------
I think rowl must be roll, see http://costume.dm.net/farthingale/
--------------------------------------------------
Note added at 2004-02-13 16:35:32 (GMT)
--------------------------------------------------
See on same site
http://costume.dm.net/farthingale/history.html#quote
\"To cut this farthingale in silk, fold the fabric in half lengthwise. From the left, the front (Piece A) and then the back (piece b) are cut from the double layer. The rest of the silk should be spread out and doubled full width to intercut the gores. Note that the front gores (A ) are joined straight to straight grain, and the back gores (B) are joined bias to straight grain, so that there will be no bias together on the side seams and they will not drop. The front of this farthingale has more at the bem than the back. The silk left over may be used for a hem. The farthingale is 1 1/2 baras long (49.5 inches) and the width round the hem slightly more than 13 handspans, which in my opinion is full enough for this farthingale, but if more fullness is required, it can be added to this pattern.\"
The pattern to the left used 6 Castilian Baras (5 1/2 yards) of silk fabric which was 22 inches wide. The large, squarish shape of the front (piece A) has the two gores marked A sewn to either side of it to create a flaring triangular front half. The two triangular gores are sewn to the front with their selvegde edges. The two triangular pieces marked B are sewn to the large B back piece by their bias-cut edges. Then the back half is sewn to the front, the straight selvedge edge of the B gore being sewn to the bias-cut edge on the A gore. As Alcega notes above, this results in no bias seams being sewn to eachother and eliminates the sagging which two bias seams sewn together would inevitably experience.
--------------------------------------------------
Note added at 2004-02-13 16:40:18 (GMT)
--------------------------------------------------
\"Boning materials used in Elizabeth\'s time include rounds of wood and cane, ropes and rags stuffed into channels, and perhaps even whalebone.\" http://costume.dm.net/farthingale/history.html#quote
Perhaps \'rolls\' of rag or \'rolled\' rags were stuffed into the channels mentioned above to create stffness.
Hope this is helpful.
Peer comment(s):
agree |
Bourth (X)
: Yes, gore and roll would make sense.
15 minutes
|
agree |
Gayle Wallimann
: I can't imagine any other explanation.
56 minutes
|
4 KudoZ points awarded for this answer.
Comment: "Graded automatically based on peer agreement."
41 minutes
farthingale/crinoline
farthingale - A framework of hoops, usually of whalebone, formerly used for extending the skirts of women's dresses; a hooped petticoat [SOED]
crinoline - Jupon bouffant, maintenue par des baleines
rowl - Never heard of it. Do you mean "cowl"? Cowl - the hood of a cloak, a cloak with a hood.
= capuche, capuchon
goare - No idea. Are you sure of the spelling?
crinoline - Jupon bouffant, maintenue par des baleines
rowl - Never heard of it. Do you mean "cowl"? Cowl - the hood of a cloak, a cloak with a hood.
= capuche, capuchon
goare - No idea. Are you sure of the spelling?
Discussion